« inside out - part I »

coming off a 12 hour train ride, i was definitely not ready for the impact of dadar station in Mumbai.

bring on the Mumbai madness... Mumbai was originally made up of seven islands that comprised a fishing village and now is all "filled in" --- in every way. I was greeted by my uncle's friend, Tim who lives there with his wife, Shimona and lovely one year old daughter, Zara. It was fantastic to be brought in to the city this way... seeing it from the inside out. Shimona's family is quite a modern Indian family and her open heart and open mind was refreshing in every way. Once Tim and I found each other, we hopped into a rickshaw and made our way to Versona. Coming into their home, I was greeted by house full of laughter and commotion.. and granted this was about 11:30pm. It felt so great to be in it. And yes, even though it was late, the night had just begun. And this would be my Mumbai all week -- lazy chill days to deal with the heat and full on nights that would last at the earliest until 3am...

It was amazing I got to experience the city with these new friends, within the family. I really got the chance to get immersed in the life there. Nighttime was time where the household was filled with smiles, laughter, friends, loved ones all around. Shimona's family is Indian Nepalese and I was lucky enough to meet her grandmother who is this strong spirited, lovely woman with the face of the moon. Coming to understand interactions with friends and family etc... it is customary to call elders "auntie" or "uncle" instead by name, as this is seen as more endearing.

One my first day, we trotted around Coloba which is most popular for foreigners -- streets are lined with bazaars of trinkets to your liking and we stopped in the infamous Leopold's for a pulpy, mango juice. Then marine drive, gateway to india and quick drive-by Haji Ali.

One night, I had the chance to go with Tim and Shimona to her auntie and uncle's house for dinner in the small village across the waterway. They have known Shimona for a long, long time and Shimona actually would teach their son when he was younger. He had just finished up school and Shimona and a group of friends bought the son a new bicycle to ride around Mumbai, as it is much more efficient and economical than other means of transportation. To get to their house, we had to go down to the local fishing village and catch a ferry across the waterway to the other side where housing is much more affordable. The fishing village was hustle and bustle -- very very narrow streets with aromas that were so intense I did not imagine they could exist. The fisherman live quite humble lives but I am told they are all quite wealthy and this can be spotted during special occasions when the wives come out adorned in gold. We then get on the ferry and uncle meets us on the other side to walk us to their home. Uncle cooked a chicken curry and made me a special dish, less spicy than the rest. It was a big night for uncle, he was having "full enjoy" which meant he was able to enjoy his whiskey in celebration of our company. It was a lovely night... we ate and laughed the night away. I could see and feel the love in their hearts and they were embracing life for all it has. It was a great night.

Getting around the city is a task within itself. At times, it can take up to 2-3 hours so you need to schedule your day well. Another thing is whatever you want, whatever you need.. you can get it delivered to your home -- even a single cigarette, up until recently. Not even NYC can beat that.

Got in some music too -- we went to see a band called Rajasthan Roots play at this swanky supper club of sorts. They would use some traditional musical instruments mixed with modern -- the main guy would use a flute/string piece that sounded like an infusing electronic sound all on its own as well as flat, stone pieces that vibrated through the space... extraordinary!!! That night I got to bed a little after 3:30am and was up by 5:30am to get a morning full of sites in before the sun started heating up the city... And all these stops, were more off the beaten path... First was the Chor Bazaar which goes from 3am to noon on Fridays that is filled with mainly electronics and in between all those used up switchboards, you can find some treasures. The monsoon rains had just started the night before, so it was a mud bath. Then, we were onto the Banganga reservoir up in Malabar Hill. This was so special for me. It is reservoir tank nestled in this little village up in the hills. It is used for spiritual ceremonies, daily washing and of course just for the sheer pleasure, especially appreciated by the children. Heading back to the city, we stopped in a couple galleries and then the The Orient ballroom. In it's day, it was a lavish ballroom filled with socialites but today, it is a dilapidated building, condemned by the city and filled with small business outposts. Nevertheless, it was a stunning space with the light and shadows playing against each other.

We talk about cities in terms of a love/hate relationship and I would say, Mumbai could definitely be one of them... My time there was one to remember. Tim, Shimona and the friends and family that surrounded me during my stay were wonderful and open and giving - I have so much to take with me from it.